GRP#4 Part 1 - Installation of the GHK GBB Conversion Kit

Part 1 of the GHK GBB Conversion Kit Review

Welcome back readers, this is the installation guide to the GHK Gas Blowback Conversion Kit.  It is designed to fit into most AEG bodies, and some modification may be necessary in order to get it into your rifle of choice.  If you check out the Evike Product Page, they have a set of instructions for the kit and any modifications that are needed for certain manufacturer's M4 rifles.  I suggest you print out a copy to look at while you put it together, just in case.

Tools I Needed:
- Nylon/Brass Hammer
- Assorted sizes of Pin Punches
- Long Shafted Philips Head Screwdriver (No.2 or No.3 head size)
- Standard Size Philips Head Screwdriver (No.1 preferred)
- Assorted Hex Head Screwdriver Sizes
- Q-tips
- Assorted Dental Picks (toothpicks make an okay substitute)
- Small round file (really small, around 1/8" diameter)

Step 1: Clear Your Rifle of All BBs and Remove All Magazines

This is going to get different for everyone else, but the premise stays the same.  Make sure to clear your rifle in case you have a round you don't know about in the chamber.  Simply take the rifle, remove its magazine, then in a SAFE DIRECTION, pull the trigger twice in semi auto.  Usually I have a box with a few towels and a screen over it so the BBs don't bounce back and hit me.  Always wear safety glasses when doing this as well, you never know who could have used your rifle last without you knowing.  Once it is clear, remove all magazines and ammunition from plain view (and the room if you want to be extra safe).

Step 2: Separate the Upper Receiver from the Lower Receiver

Pretty simple.  Each rifle is different though, so know how to take apart your rifle.  If you don't ask your local tech to help you out.

For my G&P, I had to remove the front take down pin and slide forward the upper off of the lower.  The rear pin doesn't hold the upper.  The front is also self retaining, as in it can't be punched out of the lower because of a detent pin.  The rear pin was not like this, so it is free to be removed from the body.

Step 3: Remove the Hop Up Unit from the Upper

This pretty simple as well.  Most AEG hop up units slide out the back of the upper without any resistance.  Make sure that any lose parts that fall out are accounted for.  On my rifle, there is a faux bolt plate that just fell out.  Some are mounted to the charging handle, but we will get there next.

Step 4: Remove the Charging Handle from the Upper

Again, pretty simple.  For most rifles, the charging handle is held in with its own tension spring.  Simply unhook and pull out from the back of the receiver.  You will not need the spring, as the GBB kit comes with its own.  Remove the faux bolt plate from your charging handle as well.  it is usually held on with a screw or two, or could not be attached at all like mine.

For my G&P, there was a hex screw holding my spring inside of the upper.  Once you are done, your charging handle will look like mine, nothing else attached to it.

Step 5: Disassemble the Hop Up Unit and Rebuild It Using the Parts in the GBB Kit

This is also a simple thing to do, as most techs can accomplish this in a few minutes.  The GBB kit comes with a new hop up body, adjustment wheel, hop up nub arm, retaining o-ring, retaining clip, and steel pin.  Remove the plastic C-clip from your AEG hop up unit and set aside.  Pull the inner barrel and bucking slowly out the front.  If the bucking gets stuck inside of the hop up body, use a blunt tool like a Q-tip to push it the rest of the way out.  Next part might be a tough one, you need to get the nub out of the unit.  The nub is a little rubber cylinder, tucked underneath the hop up arm.  I used a dental pick to carefully remove it, but a tooth pick will suffice.  Pictured below is the removed parts to the left (AEG hop up unit and plastic C clip), all the of the parts you will need to keep in the middle (inner barrel, hop up rubber, and hop up nub), and all of the GBB kit parts to the right.

To reassemble the GBB kit hop up, place the bucking onto the inner barrel in its correct orientation and slide it bucking from into the front of the GBB kit unit (opposite side of the wheel).  When it is fully seated, the slots on the inner barrel will line up like it would on a normal hop up unit.  Install the GBB kit plastic C-clip to retain the inner barrel.  Next, place the nub into the top of the hop up unit (towards the front), and place the arm on top of it.  There are two little fingers that will hold the cylinder in place on the hop up arm.  Again, this should look similar to a normal AEG hop up unit.  Once that is complete, press in the steel pin into the hole of the hop up body and hop up arm, going through the hole at the other side of the body.  I found the pin was a little too small for the plastic, so I took a small round file and widened the hole just a little bit.  Once I did that, the pin fit into the assembly snugly.  Next, making sure the little tab at the back of the hop up arm is aligned with the curved slot in the hop up wheel.  Push the wheel forward so the arm locks into that slot, and another slot will appear behind the wheel.  Take the O-ring and mount it into this slot so it retains the wheel onto the rest of the assembly.  The assembly is shown below, which is from GHK's instructions on Evike.com's product page for the GBB kit.

 

Now check to make sure the wheel can turn freely, check that the arm moves up and down, and look into the inner barrel to see if the nub is pressing down on the bucking properly.  If it all works, then your hop up unit is fully assembled.

Step 6: Install the Hop Up and Inner Barrel, Mount the Charging Handle onto the Upper Half of the GBB kit, and Slide the Assembly into the Upper Receiver

This is a pretty easy step.  Simply slide the inner barrel and hop up unit back into the upper receiver like it was the AEG one.  It should fit into the barrel just like it was meant to be.  Some filing may need to be done though.  It should look like an ICS hop up unit once it is installed.

Next, the upper half of the GBB kit should separate from the lower half easily for installation. You will see a tab sticking out of the top, and a groove in the charging handle where it mates.  This tab is part of the bolt assembly that reciprocates inside of the rifle as it fires, so it is important that the tab and groove are lined up.  There is a spring already mounted to the top of the GBB kit, so hook the free end into the charging handle.

Once you have the charging handle onto the upper part of the GBB kit, slide it into the upper receiver of your new rifle.  You may need to give it a little push to completely seat into place.  Just make sure the front loading nozzle is lined up with the hop up unit before you start applying force.  Mine needed a little bit of persuasion, but I didn't need a hammer.  The back end will partially stick out of the back of the upper, like in the picture below.  This is normal.

Your upper is now complete.  Check to make sure the charging handle and bolt move smoothly together, by placing your hand on the back of the upper, and racking the charging handle.  The bolt assembly should move about halfway back before it can't be pulled any further.  Check to make sure the nozzle is seated into the hop up properly, and that the wheel can turn to adjust the hop up (using only slight adjustments.  You do not want to put too much pressure on the bucking.)

Step 7: Remove the Magazine Release and Pistol Grip from the Lower Receiver

This half of the build can get much more complicated.  There are a lot of screws and bits and pieces to keep track of.  Pay close attention to not lose anything.  I will sometimes use small plastic or paper cups and place the screws and parts for each step into one cup, then stack an empty one on top of it for the next set of screws.  This way you avoid mixing up screws for different parts, even though they might seem to be the same.

For the first part of this, you will need to remove the magazine release.  Again, each rifle is different, but for most AEGs the magazine release is removed by loosening a screw.  My G&P had a Phillips head screw.  Make sure you keep all of these parts, as they will be used again.

The next step is to remove the motor grip or pistol grip.  There are two screws that hold on the motor plate at the bottom.  These will most likely be hex screws or Phillips head screws, and are located at the front and rear of the plate.  Remove them, and remove the plate.  The screw in the middle of the grip is for motor height adjustment, and should not be touched.  There might be a small metal disk underneath, so be sure to keep track of it as it is a shim for the motor height adjustment.

You will now have access to the base of the motor.  There are two wires, one red and one black, attached to it.  On my G&P, there were screws holding the wires in place, but on many AEG rifles they can be pulled off with your finger.  Once the wires are off of the motor, slide the motor out of the pistol grip.

The wires will be trailing up through the pistol grip and into the gearbox.  If you look into the opening of the grip, you will see some screws holding it on.  Use a long shafted screw driver to reach them.  Most rifles have two screws, but my G&P had 4.  Try not to let them drop into the gearbox opening in the middle though.

After those screws have been removed, slide the pistol grip off the gearbox.  The wiring will need to be snaked through the holes.

Step 8:  Remove the Buffer Tube and Gearbox Retaining Pin to Remove the Gearbox

Next step is to remove the buffer tube from the back end of the lower receiver.  Some AEGs will have wiring inside of the tube, which can make the process slightly more difficult.  My G&P was rear wired, so I had to contend with wiring inside of the buffer tube.  You will need a long shafted screwdriver (much longer compared to one used on the pistol grip).  There will be a screw and a flat nut inside of the tube.  You will be reusing this screw, but the kit comes with a different nut to use.

 (Old buffer tube retaining nut on the right, new one in the GBB kit on the left)

Next, use a pin punch to knock out the pin that holds the gearbox into the lower.  It will be the trigger pin, not the hammer pin (most AEGs have fake ones for the hammer pin.  The pin only comes out one way, as it has knurling on one side to make a friction fit into the lower.  If you find too much resistance punching it out one way, try hitting it from the other direction.  For my G&P, I had to remove it from right to left.

After all of that, the gearbox an be pulled out the top of the lower.  Make sure the selector is in the SEMI position to relieve tension on the selector plate.

Step 9:  Remove the old selector switch assembly.

For the final preparation for the lower, you need to replace part of the selector switch.  As of right now, ambidextrous selector switches are not compatible with the kit.  There hasn't been a new release of the kit either, so it doesn't look like it will be compatible in the future.

To remove the switch on the G&P, first you need to knock out the fake side.  It is just super glued in place, and I managed to push it out with my own hands.  If you need a tool, you could use a pin punch or screw driver as a lever while being careful to not mar up the lower.

Next, use a small screwdriver to remove the left side of the switch.  Be sure not to lose the detent and spring however, or else your switch will not lock into place in each position.  The screwdriver shaft will need to be small enough to fit through the opening on the right side.  You will be reusing the selector itself, the screw, and the detent and spring.  The only part you will be replacing is the inside plate.

Step 10:  Install the GBB kit selector plate, insert the GBB lower internals, and secure with pin.

 Now you need to start back tracking.  Installing the lower kit is much easier compared to getting mechbox out.  To start, head back to the selector switch. There is a new internal plate to be attached to the selector assembly.  Reinstall it the same way the old one was removed, using the screw.  There is a semi circular part that mates with the selector, so the alignment is correct.  You will know you have it installed correctly when the vertical part of the new plate is in the same direction as the throw lever for the selector.  (i.e. if the selector is set to semi, the internal plate should be vertical as well, as pictured).  Function check the selector by switching it back and forth between the the three positions.  It should move easily, and stay in each position.  You may need to adjust the screw to avoid creating too much friction.

Next, slide the lower half of the GBB kit internals into the lower receiver.  Make sure the selector is set to semi auto, and make sure the mating selector axle in the lower internals is vertical as well (see picture below).  It should just slide right in.

Line up the retaining pin hole and hammer in the trigger pin that originally held in the mechbox.  The pin should be flush with the receiver, or at least even on both sides.  Once that pin is in, give it a quick function check.  The selector should switch between the three positions and rotate the axle inside of the kit.  Also check to make sure that safe works by preventing the trigger from being pulled when the hammer is cocked.

Step 11:  Reattach the pistol grip

Flip the lower receiver upside down now, and you will see a Phillips head screw on the bottom of the GBB kit.  Remove that screw.  The pistol grip will slide onto the bottom of the kit just like it would on a standard mechbox.  Use a long shafted screw driver to reattach the screw through the bottom of the pistol grip.  It should go through the same hole that the pinion gear would from a motor.  Snug it down, but don't over tighten it.  The threads are only plastic.  You don't need to reattach the bottom motor plate if you don't want to.  It isn't required for function.  I did just to keep the parts all together.

Step 12:  Reattach the Buffer Tube assembly

This step is slightly different than before.  Normally, the screw has to be tightened from the tube side.  For the kit, the screw goes on the receiver side.  Slide all of the buffer tube parts onto the lower, except for the new nut that comes with kit. There will be two tabs sticking up from one side of the nut, that part must go inside of the tube so it faces the receiver.  It should align with the back end of the receiver.  Tighten the screw to reattach the buffer assembly.  I didn't get a chance to snap a picture because it is tough to really see it.  Instead, here is a picture from the instructions on Evike's website.

Step 13:  Reattach the Magazine Release and any other Odd Pieces.

Lastly, reattach the magazine release.  It will go back in the same way it was removed.  Slide the L shaped piece from the left side, put the spring on over the threaded post on the right side, and reattach the button onto the post using the screw.  At this point, you also want to make sure any extra parts that fell off are reattached.  The faux side of the selector will probably need reglued back on.  (NOTE: If it has a small slit cut into it, have it pointing vertically upwards or pointed to SEMI if the lower has markings on both sides).  Also make sure the faux bolt catch is replaced back into its slot position.  Mine fell out when I removed the upper and lower.  You can also replace your stock back onto the buffer tube as well (NOTE: If you wanted to change stocks, you don't need to worry about space for a battery since there isn't one.  I simply reattached the Crane Stock that came with the gun, but you can opt for another choice if you wanted a lower profile.)

Step 14:  Set the Full Auto Disconnector and Reattach the Upper and Lower Receivers

This is the assembly step before your rifle is complete.  Just like any other modern rifle, the hammer does not get released for the next shot in full auto until the bolt has nearly made its travel back into battery (all the way forward).  The M4 or M16 has this sear in the rear section of the lower.  Since the GHK's bolt is only half the size, the auto sear is in the front.  If you look at the assembly instructions, it shows the sear being tripped to allow the hammer into the correct position to begin shooting.  If you don't set the sear, then you could have problems with your hammer.

All you have to do is press it forward towards the magwell.  It is that simple.  The pictures below can illustrate the difference.

NOTE:  You will need to set the auto sear EVERY time you remove the upper from the lower.

Pictured is the hammer is being held back by the auto sear (tab sticking up vertically)

Pictured is the auto sear in the correct position, ready for assembly

Step 15:  Reattach your Upper Receiver to your Lower Receiver

Reverse what you did for Step #2.  You need to slide the upper onto the lower so the part sticking out of the back can fit into the front part of the buffer tube.  The pin holes should line up.  Both pins on my rifle lined up great, and I only needed finger pressure to reattach the pins. 

Next, perform a basic function check to ensure everything has been mated up properly.  If you don't know how to perform a function check, it is simple to do.

1) Check to make sure the safety locks into each of its positions.
2) Set rifle to SAFE, pull the trigger.  There should be little to no movement in the trigger, and the hammer should not drop.
3) Set the rifle to SEMI.  Pull the trigger and hold it to the rear.  Rack the bolt with the charging handle and slowly release the trigger.  There should be an audible 'click'.  If you pull the trigger again, the hammer should drop again.  Rack the bolt again.
4) Set the rifle to AUTO.  Pull the trigger and hold it to the rear.  Rack the bolt a few times, roughly 3-5, while still holding the trigger.  When you release the trigger, there should NOT be an audible click and the if you try to pull the trigger again nothing should happen.  With the trigger released, rack the bolt.  This should reset the trigger and hammer, and allow the hammer to fall if the trigger is pulled again.
5) With the trigger released, rack the bolt and set the rifle to SAFE.  Your function check is now complete!

Final Thoughts:

Now you can gas up your rifle and head out to give it a test fire and set the hop up.  If you have any optics mounted, you might need to re-zero them as well.  My pending review for this rifle will cover more of the function and performance.

I will give you a small preview though.  The GHK mags are spec'd for an AEG magwell, so my ICS Redi-Mag holds the GHK GBB kit mags perfectly.

Stay tuned for the full write up!

Gas Rifle Project #4 - Test Bed for the GHK GBB Conversion

Welcome back everyone.  To start off the new year, I might have to step on toes.  I decided to pick up a GHK Gas Blowback Conversion kit the other week and give it a try.

When I showed others what my new project was, I was completely shocked by their response.  A number of people said they disliked the kit; they got rid of them as soon as they could.  Others thought it was a neat idea, but needs some refinement in order to be viable.  The last group were people that thought the kit was a far cry from what makes up a true GBBR, and calling it GBB was an insult!  I was taken aback by the whole conversion.  I have heard some critiques about people with Polarstar type systems*, but never heard anything like I did.

*Please note, I will never post about Polarstar type systems on this blog except as a mention for comparison.  In my opinion, they are still an AEG which requires a battery in order to power it.  Without it, the solenoids used in the system will not function and therefore, the rifle does not work.

Philosophy of Use

Going to start this off Nutnfancy style.  If you haven't heard of Nutnfancy, check out his real gun and gear reviews on YouTube.  He begins each one with a section called the "Philosophy of Use".  He uses this to set up the rest of the review.  Types of philosophy Nutn' uses are "Go to War Pistol/Rifle", "Without Rule of Law Gun", and "Recreation Gun" just to name a few.  I'm going to try and do the same thing with this kit, as there is some confusion about what its true purpose it can be.

#1 - Adapting a Current AEG for Multiple Use

I feel the primary reason this kit was developed was to get people interested in gas powered rifles.  One of the real big cons of owning a GBBR is the large, upfront expense that can come depending on brand.  A really solid AEG can run someone an average of $200.  Extra mags and batteries add another $100 to this, again depending on brand.  For a solid kit, most people look to spend $300.  A gas rifle can start at $300, and add $200 worth of mags and gas as extra.  This is assuming you don't want the extra little accessories, like lights and optics.  The upper end GBB rifles start at $700!  Not everyone sees the same way gas gunners do.

In comes this GHK kit.  For $100, you can convert any V2 gearbox M4 rifle into a gas powered blowback rifle.  Mags still cost $50 a piece, but for around the cost of getting an entirely new M4 rifle, you can convert your existing rifle to function similarly to a GBBR. (I will go into more detail about the similarities and differences later on into the project.)  The best part about it for AEG users, you don't need to repurchase or transfer your accessories over.  The kit fits into your already set up rifle.  No need to reconfigure an additional rifle.  You need some basic tech knowledge to install the kit, but other than that it will be a quick changeover for most users.  You don't even need to change the inner barrel or bucking, it uses just about everything from your existing AEG.

#2 - Making a Future GBBR Purchase

This kit is simply a taste of  what a true gas rifle offers the user.  It has recoil, a simulated bolt stop, and a functioning charging handle.  What more could someone want?  Well, these aspects are only a taste.  What you don't get with the kit is realistic disassembly, compatibility with real firearm accessories, full stroking bolt, and a functioning bolt release.  I think with this kit, it is a stepping stone to seeing what kinds of cool features you get with a full gas rifle.

Gratuitous's GHK Kit
So what is my rifle going to be?  Well, I have always wanted the Lewis Machine and Tool MRP rifle.  G&P used to make one using the Western Arms platform under the name of "Bomber" and G&P being a prominent AEG manufacturer also makes an LMT MRP as an electric gun.  The original owner I got it from bought it as a back up to his LMT Defender 2000 (which uses a different rail system and upper).  For the most part it sat in his closet gathering dust.  I managed to pick it up for a pretty good price.

Being a G&P, it has great external quality, which is why I picked it for the GHK conversion test bed.  The trademarks look very impressive and fit in all of the right places.  The MRP is unique in its rail system.  Unlike others, the upper and rail are machined from one solid piece.  G&P replicated this out of a solid casting, but the entire gun feels rock solid.  The barrel is of a quick change change design as well, easily removed using two Torx head screws.  The only issue with this is you need to use an LMT barrel, as it has a proprietary design on the real rifle.  On the real deal, you can convert the rifle from a standard direct impingment to a piston design in under 5 minutes.  Even going from one barrel length to another is easy to do.  Currently, it features a 10.5 in barrel for the AEG version, but it also comes in a 14.5in.

For the other external things, probably an optic of some kind.  Not quite sure yet, but I have to see what I can get for cheap or have extra sitting around.  Another thing I want to see if I can get my hands on is a Redi-Mag.  The Redi-Mag is designed to attach a second magazine directly to the rifle so when I need to reload quickly, I don't need to fish a mag from my pouches or pockets.  The only real con to this system is it makes the gun heavier.  Should be fun to mess around with, assuming the GHK mags fit once it gets here.

That is the newest project.  The next post about it will be the installation.  Keep a look out for it!

Work Bench - January 2014

Welcome back reader.  As expected, I have been lying in wait as more parts and pieces come in the mail.  That being said, it does seem like I have a lot on my plate lately.  I seem to pick up projects left and right that I think are cool.  Allow me to continue what I have planned out:

 - Gas Gun Project #4 - GHK GBB Conversion Kit

I have always wondered about this kit.  For $100 plus the cost of mags, you can convert any Version 2 gearbox M4 AEG into a gas blowback rifle.  G&G realized it was a good idea and made an entire line of GBB box AEG guns.  I had to purchase an AEG for this, but even if the GBB kit doesn't work out I can at least put the electric guts back into it and sell it off.  For the price I've paid so far for it, I think it is worthwhile to document my progress with it to see if it is worth it.  I'll be laying it out in a few posts; The introduction, the installation, and the final review.  The review will be taking the most time, as I will need to put the gun through its paces.

- Gas Gun Project #5 - Soviet-Afghan AK74

One thing that has always seemed to puzzle me is why WE-Tech made their AK-47 (technically speaking it is an AKM) a "PMC" variation with rails and M4 stock.  Maybe they thought that everyone just ended up "tacticool"ing the rifle with new hand guards and other parts and decided to just make it a factory choice.

I never really liked the modern AK's.  I can see why people are drawn to them, but they are just not for me.  So, I've decided to add some real AK74 wood to my AK PMC I picked up and give it that 1980's Soviet-Afghan War look.  As far as what kind of compatibility issues I will run into, I have no idea.  Most people who have done wood conversions on the WE AK PMC used AEG or GHK ones.

- Gas Research Project - Finding the Ultimate Grenade Launcher

Grenade launchers in airsoft have always been one of the tougher items to field.  They do have their short comings, I will admit that, but I do believe there could be a viable purpose to fielding a grenade launcher.  All too often people are willing to point out the obvious flaws; increased weight, expensive, limited usage (much like sidearms).  So in my quest of all things gas powered, I am determined to find the winning combination of launcher, grenade, and projectile.  It will be an expensive endeavor, but I have a feeling the final results will be worth it.

I hope to start being able to post some concrete updates rather than these little teasing posts once a month.  I have a feeling next month is going to be a lot of introductions though.  Stay tuned in!

Work Bench - December 2013

Sorry that this post has been a little late, but the holidays do get quite hectic.  With all of the different places that sell airsoft gear, there are almost too many deals to be had to take advantage of all of them.

That being said, this Work Bench is going to be about some things I bought for some incredible deals this season.

- Ehobbyasia Beta Project Blow Out
As I speculate in the near future, the Beta Project/Magpul PTS ACR is going to go the way of the dodo bird.  With the real Magpul cuttings its ties to its Hong Kong sub-brand, it was only a matter of time before this affected all of the products in their line.  Why do I think this happened?  Well coupled with trying to pick up royalties with other real steel companies like Rainer Arms and BattleComp, I have found that people in gas gun community really don't like clone products.  We would rather have the real deal for a few dollars more.  This makes PTS look like it isn't earning its share.

As a result, I have a feeling that with the soon to be released KWA Masada/ACR, it will be the end of the Beta Project ACR.  So much so, that Ehobbyasia was dropping the price of the conversion kit from $250 all the way to $90.  I managed to snag one in tan to use as spare parts for my ACR.  That gun will become more of a wall hanger as time goes on though.  Anger Gun never released the steel bolt for the ACR, so the aluminum alloy one is not going to last forever.  In fact, after putting 1,500 more rounds through it, the bolt catch is finding difficulty in holding the bolt back.  Coupled with the lack of future development for the Beta Project, the eventual bolt not catching issue will become permanent.  Unfortunate, but other companies are starting to release GBB replicas of the ACR.  WE released the MSK in late September, and KWA will be hopefully be giving out some more details on their GBB Masada/ACR at the upcoming SHOT Show at the end of January.

- Optics Planet Sales
A really good place to get some gear, especially real gun optics, is the aptly named Opticplanet.com.  For my VLTOR M4, I am still planning on using a micro red dot sight as my sighting choice.  I have a small replica of the Insight SU-261/PVS Mini Red Dot Sight, but it turns off under the recoil of some of my guns when I tested it.  So I checked Optics Planet, after doing some research, and found a Burris FastFire II with a side protector mount for 25% off.  The final total was $225, and yes it does cost as much as a budget AEG for some people, but the obvious durability is well worth the price.  After testing it on a few rifles, I found the dot to be extremely crisp and it obviously does turn off with the recoil of a GBBR.  The thing is built to handle getting beat up on the slide of a handgun after all.

- MSK, the best ACR?
Yes, I preordered a WE-Tech MSK before they were released in September.  I have it in my hands and have been using it in a few games to do a future review.  Why I have waited as long as I have to do so is one simple thing, KWA's release of the ACR.  I would like to do a 3-way comparison between the KWA, WE, and Beta Project, but that would really depend on the release of the KWA model.  If it isn't going to be for another couple of months, I think it would be worth the wait.  Any longer and it will have to wait.

Those are pretty much the biggest deals I got.  There are going to be quite a few things coming in the next few months.  Here is a brief overview of the works in progress:

- Evolution of a Glock: Changing from Full Sized 17 to Long Slide 34
- LMG of GBB: Converting a WE SCAR-L to the FN HAMR IAR
- Call of Duty Project #2: Black Ops Commando
- Call of Duty Project #3: Remington R5 RGP Two Tone

That is what is upcoming in the project.  Stay tuned for some good projects!

Work Bench - November 2013

So here is where I stand on projects for the month of November.  Since my job has been bountiful, and the bills low, I have had a lot of extra cash to spend on myself.  Here it goes:

#1 - Change from WA to WE, the VLTOR M4 gets a system change

I had an upper, I had a lower, and one of the very first blog posts on here was practically a complete parts list.  I had a change of heart before too many things were purchased though, and it simply stems from experience, the WA system is a pain.

I am not saying all guns that use the WA system are bad, but if you try to build a WA system gun from a G&P receiver it usually ends up being more work than it is worth.  Because you don't have 1:1 receivers, you are limited to certain parts and pieces.  There is a huge market of parts available, but that can lead to tons of non-compatibility, parts breaking each other, and spending a lot of money to get a gun working for a period of time.  It usually ends up being a money pit.  Now a build with a Viper Tech is a completed different story, but I'll get into that debate eventually.

So enters my Parts Gun build.  Based on the newer WE system, it was practically a hodgepodge of different components.  It took little effort to get them to work together into a really fun gun to shoot.  It pretty much cemented in my head that the WE system required much less to work properly and for a longer period of time.  I had close to 5,000 rounds on my internals before I decided to tear the Parts Gun apart for other uses.

Now, currently the only company that makes a VLTOR lower receiver for the WE system is PRIME.  These pieces can command a hefty price, sometimes close to $400 each!  Now, a person like me has a few connections and managed to get not one, but TWO of these pieces for a really good price.  This means I am expanding the project to include two differently set up lowers and three different uppers.  More details on that will come later, but here is a picture to tease for now.

#2 - CM901 gets delayed

For the CM901, I wanted the receiver and rail system to match.  In order to do so, I would need to anodize or paint them.  I sent them off to a friend of mine who is working on it right now, but had some things come up that caused him delays.  I'll be keeping after him to make sure it gets done.  Other than that, the rest of the parts are sitting in a baggie so they are at least together.

#3 - FN HAMR, a WE SCAR LMG

You read that correctly, I managed to pick up a WE SCAR-L for a really good price and decided to turn it into a full auto monster.  I even managed to get a black lower fitted to the rest of the tan rifle.  A few boxes on on the way to me, with some parts and pieces, but some things will need to be fabricated.  More details in the dedicated project post.

#4 - Call of Duty Project #2 - Black Ops Commando

I can't help but be a Call of Duty fan, and especially so with the first Black Ops game.  It takes place in the 1960's Vietnam era conflict, where the unusual prototypes and beginnings of modern firearms begin to surface from different nations.  The Commando is the representation of the original M16 carbine rifle, the XM177.  I think it would make a really neat CQB rifle, be a good prop for a 1960's loadout.  Parts can be tough to get since the 1960's are no where near today, and the surplus market is starting to get strained.  More details will follow, but expect a complete build soon.

That is all I have right now, stay tuned for more specific posts on details for each of these new projects.

Severe Blog Update

If it isn't obvious enough, I don't really post often on here.  It kind of sucks because I know there is a lot that could do, talk, and update, but simply don't get around to doing.  I have schoolwork, a job, and other hobbies I try to keep up as well, which unfortunately means some things sit on the backburner.  That being said, things are starting to wind down and I think I finally make all you viewers a promise:

For the year of 2014, I will upload a new post at least once a month.

Sometimes I go half a year without saying anything.  As a result, projects I do have completed don't show up on here until a few months later.  So here is the breakdown of posts for the soon-to-be new year.

1. One post per month will be simply "A Work Bench Update".  This is what kind of projects I have going on, and where other projects have gotten.

2. Reviews will be sparse, but still happen.  In fact, I have two I am working on right now.  They will get posted simply whenever I finish them.  I like to try and go into as much detail as possible and that usually translates to more time between reviews.

3. Project Completions are just that, here is my new shiny toy.  These can be as simple as the M1911 build, which was swapping some parts around, or as in depth as a complete scratch build like the Parts Gun.  I will also try to share some insight into why I do things a certain way or why I like certain guns.

4. Project Starts will be, "here is a new idea I have and am planning on building".  These give a little detail as to the purpose of the build and what parameters I have set further.  Examples would be the WA VLTOR build, where I stated I won't be using any Magpul parts, or the CM901 build, where I said I will try to use as many Colt parts as I can.  Any hurdles will generally be covered in update posts.

5. Work Instructions.  I know a number of people have viewed the RS M4 Charging Handle Mod for the WE M4 rifle, so I would like to do that with other modifications that are needed to use certain parts.

Call an early New Year's Resolution or a Blog Revamp, but 2014 is going to be a busy time.  Stay tuned!

Update #3A - What Happened to the "Parts Gun"?

Gas Gun Geek returning here after a long hiatus from this blog.  I have been very involved with school trying to finish up my degree, so my time has not allowed me to update properly.  That being said, this will be a quick post.

The original concept behind the parts was to really do one thing for myself, prove I could build a working gas rifle.  I had been gathering parts for a build, and couldn't exactly get everything I wanted.  Minus a few externals, I grabbed the open bolt conversion kit I originally intended for the CM901 build and decided to get some use out of it.  In the previous post, I had the completed lower.  This time, I have the completed gun.

As you can see, it is quite the eye turner.  Very few set ups have been done this way in real steel firearms, and even fewer (if at all) in airsoft.  The upper and rail system are the unique pieces, or should I say piece.  It is a Dytac replica of the VLTOR Weapon Systems VIS-2 polylithic upper.  It is made by joining a rail system with an upper receiver using a salt braze process.  The two pieces become one solid platform.  The Dytac replica is joined by four pins, most of which are missing on my particular one (I bought it used).  Instead, I sanded down the joining surfaces and JB welded the two together.  Now it feels as good as new.

The rifle has a WE steel 10.5 in CQB outer barrel.  The flash hider is a G&P steel Rebar cutter.  I bought it because it had this very mean, compensator type of look.  Plus it could be used to push brush out of the way and get someone's attention.  I used a factory WE front sight tower and cut it down to fit underneath the end of the rail system to hold the WE gas tube.  I had some low profile ladder rail covers to prevent my hand from getting cut.  I did not have a vertical foregrip for this build at the time of these pictures, but I eventually did add a real Tango Down VFG.

You can see the main receiver of the VIS-2 upper system.  The bottom section of the rail is removed by two throw levers, and a proprietary barrel nut is used with standard AR barrels.  This allows it to be 'quickly replaced' in case of a change in mission.  Not exactly ACR quick, but still pretty darn good.  Simply using standard M4/M16 barrels makes it easy to customize it to user preference.  The upper receiver section of the VIS later became the VLTOR MUR-1A, an extremely popular upper.

The optics set up on this rifle is a type of hybrid.  A Swiss Arms Aimpoint Micro Red Dot on a low profile mount.  This makes it sit too low on a standard AR rail, so I added a UTG cantilever mount to bring it up to a better height.  I also added a 3x twist off magnifier by Bravo to make it easier to spot targets at longer range.  The magnifier is mounted further back because that is where it felt natural to me.  I should have tested it with my vest on though, and I ended up moving it forward two or three slots since I had to shorten the stock to make it more comfortable.  You can also see the BCM Gunfighter Mod3 extended charging handle as well.  The longer latch allows it to be used even with the optic so close to the top of the receiver.  It also allows the rifle to be charged with the support hand palm, instead straddling the entire hand by splitting your pointer and middle fingers.  If I don't need the magnifier, I can stuff it into pouch or leave it in the car.

An unfortunate result of the Dytac replica as well, the forward assist assembly is separately made, just like on the real VIS.  It is secured by a set screw instead of a tension pin.  The set screw puts pressure on a lip milled into the upper, but when it loosens over use (or in my case, recoil) then it falls off.  I have since this picture JB welded it also in place.

So that is the completed Parts Gun.  Again, it was more of test project than anything else.  I have run it in a few games and it has performed quite well.  I am now a huge fan of the WE system for GBBR's, and highly recommend them for use in custom rifle builds.  I have a feeling this gun will get rebuilt into something else, but for now it is a very fun, very handy gun to use.  Stay tuned for more builds from the Gratuitous Gas Gun Geek!